SRINAGAR: A decades-old traditional multi-course meal, Wazwan, is now being misrepresented across Kashmir. From street vendors to restaurants, concerns are growing over its authenticity.
Shabir, a street vendor in Srinagar, says the quality of Wazwan has changed as many sellers prioritize convenience over tradition.
He explains that dishes like rista, kebab, and goshtaba require specific preparation methods. Traditionally, meat was pounded on stones, but now machines are used, affecting both texture and taste.
Jibran Khan, owner of Zero Miles Grill and Cafe, says Wazwan has turned into a commercial product.
He questions how many establishments are committed to preserving traditional flavors rather than catering to tourist preferences.
Changing Ingredients and Cooking Methods
Concerns about the ingredients used in Wazwan dishes are growing. Meat prices have risen, and many vendors have switched to mass-production techniques.
Saqib, a food enthusiast, says restaurants now focus on presentation rather than authenticity. He recalls when Wazwan was made by skilled chefs using time-tested recipes. Today, he says, many establishments add fusion elements, prioritising speed and market appeal over tradition.
Saika, a regular restaurant visitor, says this shift affects more than just the food. She says Wazwan represents Kashmiri hospitality and craftsmanship, and its dilution could erase a significant part of local culture. She questions whether innovation and tradition can coexist without compromising authenticity.
Machine-Made Wazwan and Its Impact
Food blogger Yamin says machine-made Wazwan is threatening the tradition. He notes that staples like rista, kebab, and shami kebab are now mass-produced outside Kashmir and brought into the region. He believes this practice puts the heritage of Kashmiri Wazwan at risk.
He also points out that the dining experience has changed. Space constraints mean Wazwan is sometimes served on roads, and excess food is packed in plastic bags, reducing the cultural significance of the meal.
Authorities Respond to Concerns
A senior food officer in Srinagar says the department is taking the issue seriously. He says authorities are conducting inspections and issuing fines for violations.
He adds that stricter measures will be introduced to maintain Wazwan’s quality. He says hotels, cafes, and restaurants may be required to display information about their ingredients, ensuring transparency for consumers.
He also said that Wazwan is not just a meal but a cultural identity. He says preserving its authenticity is essential for future generations.
